What a fascinating map of a rather undeveloped Mount Pleasant in 1907. You can also see across 16th St. into what is now better known as Columbia Heights.

1907 map of Mount Pleasant

The post 1907 Map of Mount Pleasant appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

This is a fascinating real estate section to study. Click on it for greater detail and check out the ads for homes in Mt. Pleasant, Cleveland Park and Columbia Heights.

The Washington Times – Saturday, June 17th, 1911

The post June 17th, 1911: Buy a Home in Columbia Heights appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Irving Street Garage Co. advertisement in the Washington Times

Here’s an advertisement from the Washington Times that caught my eye. This was published on April 10th, 1920. This garage was located where DC USA is today.

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The post Columbia Heights Had the Largest Fireproof Garage South of Philadelphia appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

1907 Baist real estate atlas of 14th and Monroe St. NW

I came across a very sad article in the Washington Post the other day. This is from September 2nd, 1906 and given that a large number of GoDCers have demonstrated their interest in the macabre and tragic posts, I’ll share this with you.

In the span of 12 months there were nine mysterious deaths in Columbia Heights, all within two blocks of 14th and Monroe. There was much speculation in the public and the Post wrote about some of these deaths.

The skillfully planned suicide of Dr. James Donald Wilson, of 1325 Park road, who was found by his father, Ebenezer Wilson, sitting dead in his chair, on Friday morning, adds one more horror to the list of persons who have met sudden or violent death in that immediate vicinity in the last year.

Using the corner of Fourteenth and Monroe streets as a pivot and drawing an imaginary circle two blocks in circumference, there have been within this circle in the last twelve months, seven deaths by suicide, one by accident and one person found dead.

The neighborhood is becoming aroused over the constantly recurring tragedies, and when Dr. Wilson’s death was announced, the questions was, “Who or what will be next?”

I live quite close to 14th and Monroe, so this creeps me out a little bit. Good thing I don’t believe in ghosts.

Let me warn you, newspapers were a little more graphic at the time, so the imagery is going to be a little brutal. Also, as a reference point, the Stratford Hotel was located at the southwest corner of 14th and Monroe.

In January last Mr. McCormick, a contractor and builder, happily married and with two half-grown children, walked out of the Stratford Hotel, after kissing his family good-by, and boarded one of the Norfolk steamers. When the boat reached Norfolk, Mr. McCormick’s coat was found in the stateroom, but the owner has never been heard of since.

Just around the corner from the Stratford on Monroe street lived Mr. and Mrs. Du Bois, the former an official in the government. Early last fall, after grieving for months over the death of an only child, Mrs. Du Bois procured a bottle of poison, lay under the trees, drank the contents of the bottle, and died in an ambulance on the way to the hospital.

In October, a Mrs. Hempson, who occupied the ground floor flat in the Berwick apartment house at Fourteenth and Park road, maddened by the thought that her husband had left her, called to her two tiny children, who were playing in the back yard to “look at mamma.” As the children looked up, she sent a bullet crashing through her brain, and was dead when the janitor reached her side.

Dear God, that’s horrible and it’s crazy that the newspaper would print that. The tragedy continues.

In this same apartment about two years ago, Miss Kitzmiller, a niece of Gen. Swain, was burned to death.

P. A. Carr, a conductor on the Fourteenth street car line, believing himself unrequited in love, shot and killed himself about four months ago.

Benjamin Parkhurst, formerly a clerk in the city post-office, came home from work one day last summer and while crazed by drink, attempted to kill his wife. Neighbors rushed to the rescue and the woman was saved. Three months later Mr. Parkhurst went to Chester, Pa., on business, and was killed in a street brawl.

At the corner of Monroe and Sixteenth streets live a family by the name of Truitt. About six months ago, Mrs. Ida Squires, a Virginia woman, came to pay Mr. and Mrs. Truitt a visit. A few mornings after her arrival Mrs. Truitt heard moans, and upon investigating, found Mrs. Squires lying on the grass in the side yard. She had, while despondent, jumped from the second story window and broken every bone in her body. She died an hour afterward.

Thomas Haines, a butler in a private house on Park road, tired of living, selected a pile of lumber near the corner of Park road and Sixteenth street, and blew his brains out.

What the hell was going on in Columbia Heights in the early 1900s? This is unbelievably awful.

At the home of Harry Wallis, 1428 Newton street, Pickney Smith, for many years a department clerk and an officer in the District Militia, was found by Mrs. Wallis, the 10th of last March, lying dead on the bathroom floor.

The son of John Barry, the proprietor of a grocery store at 1438 Newton street, was killed while playing in the White Lot. The little fellow attempted to jump into the back of a pony cart, but caught his foot and was thrown under the wheels. He died in the arms of a policeman who was carrying him to the Emergency Hospital.

What might have been a terrible calamity at the Berwick apartment house was happily averted. Last February fire broke out in the Berwick Flats and exit was cut off by the stairways vomiting up fire and smoke. Ladders were run up to the third floor, and the inmates rescued by firemen.

At the time that nine people were attempting to escape on one ladder, the ladder broke, and but for the awning, on which they fell, the whole nine would have been dashed to death.

One of the persons on the ladder was the mother of Nan Patterson. The small bones of her right foot were boken, and Mrs. Patterson is a semi-invalid as a result.

This is nuts. When you go to the Columbia Heights Farmer’s Market this weekend, you can talk about how you’re standing about a block from the former epicenter of tragedy. Crazy. Oh, three months earlier, an earthquake in San Francisco killed over 3,000 people.

This is so crazy that you have to share it on Facebook. Have a good weekend.

Related articles

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• Cries of Murder; Man Slashed Several Times, Leaps From Window (ghostsofdc.org)
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• The Kenesaw: Fine New Structure Goes Up in Mt. Pleasant (ghostsofdc.org)
• Columbia Heights Arcade Gets First Roof Garage in D.C. (ghostsofdc.org)

The post Epicenter of Macabre Tragedy in 1906: 14th and Monroe in Columbia Heights appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Walter and Hazel Johnson with Walter’s mother (Library of Congress)

Here’s one of the best story tips we’ve received thus far.

Thanks to GoDCer Jack in Poolesville who tipped us off to the Big Train’s nuptials being held in a regular apartment at 1498 Monroe St. NW, right on the border of Mt. Pleasant and Columbia Heights. The Big Train is probably my second favorite person to write about (after Officer Sprinkle) and a personal story like this is a great one to share.

The wedding was reported in the Washington Post on Thursday, June 25th, 1914. Walter Johnson and Hazell Lee Roberts married the night before at the home of Hazell’s parents (her father was Edwin E. Roberts, At-Large Representative from Nevada and former mayor of Reno).

The world’s greatest pitcher, before whose resistless arm all other rivals have gone down to defeat, met his mater in the Love God, and gracefully surrendered when Walter Johnson, of the Washington American League team, was quietly married last night to Miss Hazell Lee Roberts, daughter of Representative E. E. Roberts, of Nevada, at the home of the bride’s parents, the Raymond apartment house, 1498 Monroe street northwest.

The triumph of Cupid over this famous champion of the diamond was the immediate sequel of the finest exhibition of his prowess he has ever shown, but few of those who saw the masterly skill with which he won victory from the world’s champion Athletics were aware of the romantic event to follow a few hours later. From a special box at the baseball park a pair of bright eyes watched him in the culminating achievement of his career on the mound, just as they had followed his success so often since the evening, about a year ago, when he met his future bride at the Hotel Dewey were the Nationals at that time made their headquarters and the member of Congress from Nevada, with his charming family, made his home.

The tumult and the shouting which greeted his wizardlike prowess at the baseball park were in striking contrast with the exclusive and simple ceremony at the home of the bride, where the Rev. Dr. Prettyman, chaplain of the Senate, officiated. There were no bridesmaids and no best man, only members of the bride’s family witnessing the ceremony.

So much awesomeness in this article. Yes, I have a little bit of a historical man crush on Walter Johnson. I mean, the guy was an awesome pitcher, maybe the best ever and he lived in D.C. He was a good dude, people liked him and he gets married in a low-key ceremony in a small Columbia Heights apartment a few hours after he destroys the Philadelphia A’s. How can you not admire this man?

Check out the old 1907 Baist map of the block. The Raymond is situated close to the corner of 16th and Monroe. The pink structures are brick row houses and the yellow ones are frame homes. You can see how many empty lots there were back then. Check out the post on Columbia Heights growth and development, following the streetcar boom in the early 20th century.

1907 Baist real estate atlas of Monroe St. NW (Library of Congress)

Here’s the same area in a Baist map from 1915, just a year after the small wedding ceremony. The address is 1498 still, so it likely wasn’t changed until the eastern side of the block filled in, which was still quite open when this map was made.

1915 Baist real estate atlas of Monroe St. NW

I’m a little confused about the address since 1498 Monroe St. NW is non-existent today (i.e., the address disappeared). The building that was the Raymond in 1914 appears to be in the same spot, but it now has the street address 1538 Monroe St. NW. By studying the Baist map, I’m guessing that addressing for the entire south side of the block was redone when the vacant lots were filled in with development.

Another interesting quirk on that block of Monroe St. is that the south side has a 1500 block, yet the north side does not. Again, probably the result of the north side filling in faster than the south.

I walk my dog past this building on occasion and now I know a great little story about it from 98 years ago. I don’t know anyone that lives there, but if you do, share this story with them.

1538 Monroe St. NW

1538 Monroe St. NW today

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The post Mr. and Mrs. Walter Johnson Tie the Knot on Monroe St. NW appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Arcade Market in Columbia Heights (Library of Congress)

Driving was still not the primary mode off transportation in the city with streetcars crisscrossing the city, but John Blick, head of the Arcade Market going up in Columbia Heights felt strongly enough about making as easy as possible to park as close to the Arcade as possible. Remember when we almost had a Whole Foods move in? … only to have those hopes dashed by a lack of parking.

Here’s an article in the Washington Post on November 9th, 1927, detailing the plan.

The first commercial house in Washington to establish a parking garage on its roof for the convenience of patrons, will be the new Arcade Market at Fourteenth and Kenyon streets northwest, if plans submitted yesterday by John S. Blick, president of the Washington Acrade Co. to the District Commissioners are adopted.

The new market, which will be opened about November 23, has been built only one story high, and a ramp runs from the alley at the side of the new structure to the roof.

If the Commissioners approve of Mr. Blick’s plan, and he is able to gain the consent of adjacent property owners, he plans to allow motoring customers of the market to drive up the ramp and park their cars while shopping. Traffic in the vicinity of the market becomes very congested at certain times of the day, and Mr. Blick feels that the roof garage will be a great convenience to shoppers.

While some garages in the city have established roof garages on which to store cars which have been turned in and which are being held for resale, no other establishment in the city has established a parking garage on its roof. The idea has been carried out successfully by merchants in other cities, notably Chicago, and has been suggested here several times.

Hmm, traffic becomes very congested at certain times of the day? Things never change. Don’t drive anywhere near 14th St NW.

Related articles

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• The Kenesaw: Fine New Structure Goes Up in Mt. Pleasant (ghostsofdc.org)
• Open House For 13th and Harvard St. NW Homes (1905) (ghostsofdc.org)
• Washington’s Growing Pains (theatlanticcities.com)
• If Walls Could Talk: Tivoli Theater Was “The Temple of the Arts” (ghostsofdc.org)

The post Columbia Heights Arcade Gets First Roof Garage in D.C. appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

The street names don’t always make sense in Columbia Heights, nor do they truly conform to the grid system of Old City (ie, below Boundary Street – now Florida Avenue).

Take a look at the map below. Things don’t look right. Kenesaw Ave. is now Irving St. Whitney Ave. is Park Rd. Howard is Newton and Sheridan is Monroe (Lydecker is also Monroe). At least Meridian was Meridian. Check out a larger version at the Library of Congress.

U.S. coast and geodetic survey 1892-1894 of Columbia Heights (Library of Congress)

In May 1904, Congress gave the authority to District Commissioners to rename the streets in the Columbia Heights suburbs under the existing nomenclature system (i.e., alphabetical and orderly). This happened unilaterally of course, without any input from those that lived in Columbia Heights, so as you can imagine, the citizens association was not thrilled with the idea.

Below is a quote from the Washington Post on May 4th, 1904.

Judge McCalmont led the opposition to the resolution. “This thing of having mathematical accuracy to everything I do not believe in,” he said, with considerable emphasis. “The scheme of naming these streets Yale, Harvard, and Princeton was a good one. They are significant of nice schools, names of colleges held in affection, and why should they not remain? I believe that the people should have something to say in the naming of their streets. Our people know enough to find the way home.” He held up for ridicule the A B C system and the lack of sentimentality which the names would possess.

Well, McCalmont was not effective in his push to halt to attempt to better structure the street names around Columbia Heights. Only a year later, on August 2nd, 1905, the Washington Post reported on the pending name changes. By the way, this is fascinating because these are all the street names we know that define where we live and this was the moment when they were made public.

A revolution in the names of streets in the section of Washington bounded generally by Rock Creek Park and the Zoological park on the west and North Capitol street on the east is shown by many new names which were announced yesterday by the Commissioners. The numbered streets extend northward to the District line and the lettered streets, as far as the end of the alphabet, are extended into the District outside of the old city limits of Florida avenue. Until the alphabet is exhausted names of two syllables, alphabetically arranged, are given, and then names of three syllables are selected.

…

Columbian College Grounds, north part–Bacon street changes to Harvard street, and Binney street changed to Girard street.

Columbian College grounds, south part–Chapin street unchanged, and Staughton street changed to Buford street.

Columbia heights–Clifton street changed to Douglas street, Roanoke street changed to Euclid street, Yale street changed to Franklin street, Princeton street changed to Girard street, Harvard street not changed, Columbia street changed to Columbia road, Kenesaw street changed to Irving street, Kenyon street not changed, Dartmouth street changed to Lawrence street, and Whitney avenue changed to Marshall road.

Denison & Leighton’s subdivision–Kenesaw avenue changed to Irving street, and Grant street changed to Lawrence street.

Gass subdivision–Whitney avenue changed to Marshall road, and Scott avenue changed to Newton place.

Haw’s subdivision–Grant avenue changed to Barry place.

Howard University subdivision–Wilson street changed to V street, Pomeroy street changed to W street, Trumbull street, east of Fourth, changed to Bryant street; Howard avenue changed to Howard place, Lincoln street changed to Franklin street, Sumner street changed to Girard street, Colfax street changed to Gresham place, and Morris street changed to Hobart place.

Holmead Manor–Rock Creek Church road changed to Marshall road, Lydecker avenue changed to Monroe street, Holmead avenue changed to Holmead place, Eslin avenue changed to Eleventh street, Morgan avenue changed to Tenth street, and Lamar place changed to Otis place.

Wait, you’re not recognizing half of these new names are you? There were literally hundreds of name changes published in the Washington Post for every new suburb in Washington (i.e., Woodley Park, Columbia Heights, Cleveland Park). The District  Commissioners were defining the city as we would come to know it today and it took a few more iterations before the names stuck.

Sanborn Firemap of Columbia Heights in 1903 (LIbrary of Congress)

Another article published by the Washington Post on October 15th of that year had some more recognizable, contemporary names.

Col. John Biddle, the Engineer Commissioner, submitted to his colleagues of the District board yesterday the completed schedule of changes in the names of streets in the suburban territory north and northwest of Florida avenue. The schedule was practically adopted by the board last Wednesday, six names being held under consideration until yesterday. The list of streets and names follows:

Columbian College Grounds (North part)–Bacon to Harvard, Binney to Girard.

Columbian College Grounds (South part)–Chapin unchanged, Staughton to Belmont.

Columbia Heights–Roanoke to Euclid, Yale to Fairmount [sic], Princeton to Girard, Harvard not changed, Columbia street to Columbia road, Kenesaw to Irving, Kenyon not changed, Dartmouth to Lamont, Whitney avenue to Park road.

Denison and Leighton’s subdivision–Kenesaw avenue to Irving street, Grant to Lamont.

Gass subdivision–Whitney avenue to Park road, Scott avenue to Newton place.

Halls’ subdivision–Eighth to Ninth

Haw’s subdivision–Grant avenue to Barry place.

Howard University subdivision–Wilson to V, Pomery to W, Trumbull, east of Fourth, to Bryant; Trumbull, west of Sixth, not changed; Howard avenue to Howard place, Lincoln to Fairmount, Sumner to Girard, Colfax street to Gresham place, Morris street to Hobart place.

Holmead Manor–Rock Creek Church road not changed, Lydecker avenue to Monroe street, Holmead avenue to Holmead place, Eslin avenue to Eleventh street, Morgan avenue to Tenth street, Lamar place to Otis place.

This sounds like a horribly chaotic process for naming the streets. I can imagine sitting in the meeting where two men are fighting over calling Dartmouth Street Lawrence or Lamont Street. Does it matter in the long run? No, but if the dude’s name was Lawrence, he’s probably pissed to this day.

Columbia Heights in 1909 by M.I. Weller (Library of Congress)

Here is my favorite letter to the editor for the week. This is from Tillman Joy, Columbia Heights resident, who was less than pleased at the half-hearted attempt at an orderly naming convention for the streets. Tillman’s letter was published by the Post on Christmas Day, 1929.

Quite a number of years ago the authorities adopted a scheme for the systematic naming of streets added to those already regularly lettered, numbered and otherwise named. Naturally, it was thought that in its future growth the city would be free from the antiquated, unsystematic arrangement with which it was threatened. But it was not to be. At least, it was not to be, so far as Columbia Heights, where I reside, is concerned. For some reason, or no reason, old local names were retained, and in the case of new streets names were fixed according to the sentimental wishes of individuals or the whim of the street-naming expert.

With no regard for numerical and alphabetical sequence, we find distributed through the Heights Brown, Center, Oak and Pine streets, Hiatt place, Meridian place, Mozart place, Ingleside terrace. And, especially objectionable, there are duplications of names, as in the case of Spring road, Spring place, Park road, Park place, Parkwood place. All this in one neighborhood.

Perhaps it may be objected that it would be sacrilegious, if not impracticable to systematically rename these and other thoroughfares. But to this writer it seems that the possible temporary dissatisfaction of a few individuals which might be involved in their renaming would be very much more offset in the case of the thousands of citizens who, from month to month, are inconvenienced, irritated and outraged by the present arrangement.

Related articles

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• Two Plumbers and a Plasterer Go Looking for Trouble and Find It (1895) (ghostsofdc.org)
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• Open House For 13th and Harvard St. NW Homes (1905) (ghostsofdc.org)

The post Old Columbia Heights: Where the Streets Have New Names appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Tivoli Theater at night

You can’t walk past the Tivoli Theater in Columbia Heights and not admire it, imagining what the surrounding streets were like in the late 1920s. The arrival of Harry Crandall’s new theater was a big deal for the area and let’s not forget that just a couple of years earlier, his Knickerbocker Theatre was the site of the catastrophic roof collapse that killed 98 people.

Here’s an article from the Washington Post on February 17th, 1924, before the opening.

Crandall’s New Tivoli theater at Fourteenth street and Park road northwest has been heralded ever since construction was started as the largest theater in Washington. This is an easy claim to make for any structure of this kind prior to the time when it takes definite shape and its actual dimensions both exterior and interest can be appraised.

Crandall’s Tivoli has now reached the stage of completion which makes it very clear indeed that it will be not theoretically, but actually the largest monumental edifice in the National Capital devoted exclusively to theatrical purposes. It has a frontage on Fourteenth street of almost an entire city square and more than half that frontage on Park road. This affords so tremendous a ground area that it is entirely feasible to deduct space on the Fourteenth street side for a series of smart shops and an even greater depth on Park road for lobby and promenade lounge purposes. The auditorium proper still remains a huge and magnificently beautified concourse with a comfortable seating capacity of 2,500 people.

The progress in decorating the Tivoli has been so rapid that it is already possible to gain a distinct impression of those qualities of beauty which will place the Tivoli at the top of the list of the most magnificent theaters on the continent. Every expert who has viewed the Tivoli so far, and there have been many, have reiterated belief that here is a house of which not only Washington, but the nation, may be proud. It is definitely schedule to open on April 1.

Tivoli Theater (Wikipedia)

The picture this article paints is that of an incredibly impressive and opulent theater, the likes of which we won’t see again, which is sad. On the one hand, I’m thrilled that Anthony Williams’ administration pushed to save the building, but I’m bummed that it couldn’t be made a theater again.

I know it wouldn’t be able to survive as a movie theater these days, but how cool would that have been? Nevertheless, the city has done an excellent job at preserving an important piece of city history.

The opening was cause for major celebration and the city was greatly anticipating the new 2,500-seat picture house. When opened, tickets were advertised at 25 cents for matinées, plus a 2 cent war tax for any seat in the orchestra, loge or balcony (war tax in 1924? maybe to pay off World War I bonds). Children could attend a matinée for 20 cents plus a 2 cent tax for any seat.

Evening shows were twice the price at 50 cents with a 5 cent war tax for orchestra, 77 cents plus 8 cent tax in the loge and the balcony was 26 cents with a cent tax. Children could attend for 33 cent in the orchestra and 22 cents for the balcony.

Columbia Heights held a grand parade, the day before opening, to celebrate the arrival of the theater. The Washington Post reported that the parade was to be held on April 4th, 1924.

A parade will open the celebration of the opening of Tivoli theater, it was decided last night at a meeting of the community committee which has charge of the celebration. It is planned to stage the parade the night of April 4. The theater will be opened the following day amid a carnival of dancing, fireworks, music and other features.hist

A nominal charge will be made against firms entering floats, it was decided to cover the expense of decorations and music, etc. The executive committee will meet shortly to decide the route and time of starting. It is expected that it will traverse all of the principal downtown streets.

Several business firms have already notified Dr. J. V. MacKenzie, chairman of the parade committee, with office es in the Riggs national Bank building, Fourteenth street and Park road, that they would enter floats, it was said, and Commissioner E. L. Mattice, of the Boy Scouts promised that a sufficient number of scouts would be on hand to do their bit. It is likely that the scouts, strung out along the line of march, will be given sparklers to set off as the procession approaches to give it added color.

The route was selected shortly thereafter and reported in the Post on March 30th.

Tivoli Theater (photo by Flickr user NCinDC)

The route of the vehicle parade, which is to be the main faeture [sic] of the community Tivoli opening celebration Friday evening, was mapped out at a meeting of the executive committee of the community organization, held yesterday at the Arcade. Owners of several hundred delivery wagons, auto trucks, floats and pleasure cars have requested places in line. The People’s Drug Stores, the Arcade company and several other concerns with large business intrests [sic] in the Columbia Heights and neighboring sections, are arranging for floats. The Chestnut Farms Dairy hopes to have some of its horse-drawn vehicles in line, as well as a large number of its delivery autos. The laundries are planning to get some worthwhile attention from observers.

…

While the plan for assembling the participants has not been worked out, the parade will start at Seventeenth street and Pennsylvania avenue. It will move east to Fifteenth street, south to the Avenue again and along to Ninth street. There it will turn north to F street and west on F street to Fourteenth street, encircling the theater district. The parade will go up Fourteenth street to Shepherd street and then turn on Georgia avenue, to park road, to Mt. Pleasant street and disband at Columbia road.

Thanks to Google Maps, I’ve plotted this route for you.

1924 Tivoli Theater celebation parade route (click for more)

Seats for the Saturday opening were put on sale Thursday morning starting at 10 a.m. and within three hours, all 2,500 seats were sold. Locals were abuzz with the notion that Washington had a grand theater to rival those in New York. The Washington Post wrote a glowing review of the new palace of motion pictures — built at a cost of $10 million — in the heart of Columbia Heights the following Monday.

Even the most extravagant expectation of commodiousness, comfort and beauty was more than fulfilled last night when the formal dedication of Crandall’s new Tivoli theater at Fourteenth street and Park road northwest marked on of the most brilliant events in Washington’s theatrical history.

The structure which represents an investment of $10,000,000, is architecturally imposing with exterior of highly ornamental polycrome terra cotta. The Fourteenth street frontage, extending almost the entire block from Park road to Monroe street, houses ten charming 2-story French shops with office suites on the third floor and studio apartments on the fourth, where also are located several of the dressing rooms utilized by those appearing on the Tivoli stage. The shops are unique in that each has a little open well, visible immediately upon entering the door, which permits simultaneous display of first and second floor stock. The entrance to the Tivoli offices is in the middle of the Fourteenth street block and is distinct from the theater entrance.

Studio apartments? I need to dig up some stories on old residents. That sounds fascinating. It reminds me of that recent documentary about New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham and his studio apartment in Carnegie Hall.

Tivoli Theater opening headlines in the Washington Post (April 6th, 1924)

The article, which is quite long, continues to praise the extraordinary finishes of the interior, which will give you a nice sense of what it was like over 80 years ago.

Upon entering the theater one finds himself in a handsomely decorated domed foyer of exquisite design and extremely artistic finish. From the left side of this foyer a stairway descends to the smoking and lounging room for gentlemen that extends under the Park road lobby. Here is a great fireplace, comfortable divans and other practical appurtenances. Proceeding through the foyer the main lobby is reached, with its magnificent marble trimmings, wonderful lighting fixtures and mural oil paintings obviously executed by an artist of the highest rank. This lobby extends the length of the Park road side of the theater and has exit doors at the far end toward Thirteenth street. Then entrance to the auditorium proper is directly in the middle of the north side of the lobby and from each end of the lobby grand staircases, completely done in marble lead to the mezzanine and balcony.

On the mezzanine floor is the principal lounge paneled in mahogany and beautifully carpeted and furnished. From this delightful vantage point an impressive view of the lobby is permitted and direct entrance afforded to the mezzanine loge boxes which flank the projection booth which is so placed as to throw the picture straight at right angles upon the screen. Another novelty in the construction and placing of the booth is found in its location on the mezzanine tier.

This innovation made possible the installation of glass, wire-screened, fireproof doors opening directly into the promenade lounge from which patrons of the theater can view every process necessary to throw the pictured image upon the screen. It is expected that this peek behind the scenes, so to speak, will prove of great interest to the laity unfamiliar with the mechanical processes essential to the successful purveyance of their amusement.

Okay, no disrespect to Z-Burger (when are you opening?) or the old sushi place (which I liked) or Mayorga Coffee, but it’s too bad we can’t have what was just described above. Can you imagine how amazing that would be?

It was so impressive at the time that just about every company involved in the construction placed advertisements in the Washington Post to associate themselves with the theater.

Edward Stevens advertisement in the Washington Post, April 6th, 1924

This next bit is some serious technical wizardry, especially for the 1920s.

As a radical departure from usual theater custom as the Tivoli’s revelation of the working projection booth, is found in the type of orchestra pit with which the house has been supplied. The floor on which the orchestra sits is in reality an elevator. The orchestra can be lowered to the basement level, or raised to stage level without disturbing a member or occasioning the discontinuance of a seletion. The same is true of the organ console, which likewise is on an elevator of its own, and can be raised and lowered simultaneously with or independently of the organ.

…

It is futile to attempt to convey by the printed word any adequate notion of the size, the completeness or the atmosphere of artistic achievement with which the Tivoli impresses the spectator upon his first visit. On every hand there is evidence of tremendous expenditure of thought and creative genius in attaining the final effect, and it is obvious that the house as dedicated last night must easily have cost the $1,000,000 its completion is said to represent.

…

The Tivoli is not in the usual sense a “neighborhood house.” It is, on the contrary, an institution of which the entire city of Washington ought to be proud and ought to be anxious to support. It is quite deserving of the description of “The Temple of the Arts” which has already been bestowed upon it.

…

In the Tivoli theater the Capital has a monumental edifice of which Mr. Crandall and the nation may both well be proud.

Are you impressed? I am … thoroughly. Also, the article mentioned $10 million first, then the $1 million figure. I think the former is a typo. That was a ton of money in 1924, and I’m guessing an additional zero was added.

It’s sad that we’ll probably never have places like this in the city today, but it’s great to dig into the past and imagine what it was like. I’m sure many of you agree and hopefully when you’re hanging out at the Columbia Heights Farmer’s Market (we really have to wait until May for this?) with your friends this summer, you can share some of these stories and descriptions with them.

Oh, and one last thing. The manager of the theater when it opened was Harry E. Lohmeyer, an employee of Crandall’s for many years who had been promoted to the most prestigious position at the Tivoli. He was 35 years old when the theater opened. According to the 1930 U.S. Census, he lived at 6215 4th St. NW … a little bit of a hike, almost in Takoma. He owned his home, valued at $12,000, living with his wife of 16 years, Mary, and two sons, Theodore, 15, and Harry Jr., 5.

To be the manager of this epicenter of entertainment was undoubtedly a major achievement and both Mary and his little boy Theodore were both likely quite proud witnessing the parade through Washington’s streets and opening of the theater the following night.

Hey, maybe Officer Sprinkle was in attendance on opening night.

Harry Crandalls' Tivoli Theater advertisement day before opening (Washington Post)

Tivoli Theater (photo by Flickr user dbking)

This was a fun post to look into, partly because I walk by this theater almost daily. I hope you enjoyed it, and if you did, why not follow us on Twitter of Facebook to get updates?

Related articles

• First Lady Grace Coolidge Visits the Tivoli Theater in Columbia Heights (ghostsofdc.org)
• District National Bank Branch Office (1924) (ghostsofdc.org)
• Street Car Extensions and a Columbia Heights Building Boom (1902) (ghostsofdc.org)
• Before Ovechkin: Columbia Heights Roller Hockey (ghostsofdc.org)
• Lights! Camera! A Famous Comedy Special??? (ghostsofdc.org)
• Perils of a Columbia Heights Fire Run (1900) (ghostsofdc.org)

The post If Walls Could Talk: Tivoli Theater Was “The Temple of the Arts” appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

This is awesome. Maybe you’re going to hit up a few open houses today? Well, check this old advertisement out.

13th and Harvard St. NW advertisement (1905)

This part is great, advertising your potential new neighbors in Columbia Heights:

Elegant residences of Congressmen Prince, Gardner, Hermann, Hogg, Miller, Roberts and Hon. Wm. T. Harris, Commissioner West, Assessor Darneille, Justice Harlan, Mr. Droop, Mrs. John A. Logan, Judge Bundy, Mr. Ailes, Vice President Riggs Bank, and homes of many other prominent, well-known citizens surround these houses.

Anybody know which homes these are? I was checking out Google Street View, but couldn’t narrow down which set of row houses this would have been. The closest I could get was this one.

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• Then and Now: Riggs National Bank – 15th and Pennsylvania Ave. NW (ghostsofdc.org)

The post Open House For 13th and Harvard St. NW Homes (1905) appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

I’ll leave you with this last photo from 1926. This is a great way to end your Friday. This was taken in the old Columbia Heights Arcade. Vivian Marinelli is teaching these guys the Charleston … I suppose for dexterity? You can buy some of photos of this on Amazon.

Basketball and learning the Charleston (1926)

Enjoy your evening and stay out of trouble. If you’re lucky enough to have the long weekend … relax and have a good time!

Related articles

• Back when Columbia Heights had a professional basketball team (newcolumbiaheights.blogspot.com)

The post Basketball and the Charleston appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Grace Coolidge at the Tivoli Theater Girl Scouts benefit (November 7th, 1925)

Michelle Obama isn’t the only first lady to set foot in Columbia Heights. Grace Coolidge took the drive up 14th St. to attend a benefit for the Girl Scouts at the Tivoli Theater. The Washington Post reported the event on October 31st, 1925.

MRS. COOLIDGE will be the guest of honor of the children of Washington this morning at the inaugural performance of the second season of selected programs for children in the Tivoli theater. The film will be Sir J. M. Barrie‘s “Peter Pan,” …

Mrs. Coolidge, who is the honorary president of the Girl Scouts of America, will aid their drive by attending the benefit performance Saturday morning, November 7, in the Tivoli theater, which will open the week of the drive, and will wear her uniform.

This was the first film adaptation of Barrie’s play, originally released in December 1924. I found a great clip on YouTube, so check that out below.

Amazing … and how quaint. I imagine the girls loved this film. The special effects are amazing and the fake dog is even better.

Wikipedia even had the original movie promotion poster, which would have hung on the sides of the Tivoli.

J. M. Barrie's Peter Pan by Paramount Pictures (1924)

Take a look at the elegant official White House portrait of Mrs. Coolidge.

Grace Coolidge - Official White House portrait, 1924 (Wikipedia)

Related articles

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The post First Lady Grace Coolidge Visits the Tivoli Theater in Columbia Heights appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Washington Roller Hockey (1926)

Before Ovechkin and the Washington Capitals, we had Barkley, Morrow, Harrison, W. Whiting and H. Whiting

The Whiting brothers, William and Harry, lived with their parents at 55 Adams St. NW — according to the 1930 U.S. Census — and in 1926, Harry was only 15. I’m guessing that he’s the guy standing on the right with the baby face.

The D.C. Hockey team played in Columbia Heights at the Arcade Rink — the current DC USA site — in a multipurpose gymnasium which doubled as a professional basketball venue (I use the term professional loosely).

Columbia Heights roller hockey (1926)

On January 17th, 1926 the evening matchup was between Washington and visiting Baltimore.

A new dish was served on Washington’s sports menu last night at the Arcade when teams representing Washington and Baltimore met at roller hockey, the Capital Cityans winning, 3 go 1.

The game is both fast and rough, but seemed to appeal to the gathering on hand, made up mostly of skaters. The visitors scored their lone tally shortly after the opening whistle blew when Freeman, running down the sidelines, scored on a chance shot. Before the first period ended Washington tied the score, and its two other goals came in the second. The third was a scoreless one for both teams.

Houston easily starred for Baltimore, while the Whitings were the locals’ best bets.

Thrilling roller hockey advertisement (1926)

The Whiting boys were quite the accomplished skaters, competing four years earlier in a 24-hour roller skating race at Central Coliseum (i.e., Cardozo High School).

Washington roller-skate enthusiasts were treated to a thrilling finish in the 24-hour race staged in the Central Coliseum and finishing at 8:05 last night. For 46 laps Harry Whiting and his brother Bill raced neck and neck with one and then the other appearing in front for a short time.

By the end of the race, Harry Whiting had traveled a mind-bogging 301 miles, beating his brother William by a single lap. OMG … this sounds like the most boring spectator sport ever. For all you baseball haters, I’m going to ask you to attend one of these the next time you whine about watching nine innings.

Below is a photo of the old Arcade Market. You probably have seen the DC Cultural Tourism sign on the east side of 14th St., which has this exact photo. The next time you’re rockin’ out on the stairmaster in Washington Sports Club, or standing in a line 30 people deep at Target, think about the roller hockey that took place on that very spot over eighty years ago.

Arcade Market on 14th St. in Columbia Heights (1913)

All the incredible photos on this page are from Shorpy.

Related articles

• Perils of a Columbia Heights Fire Run (1900) (ghostsofdc.org)
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• Street Car Extensions and a Columbia Heights Building Boom (1902) (ghostsofdc.org)
• Nick Altrock: A Columbia Heights Major Leaguer (ghostsofdc.org)

The post Before Ovechkin: Columbia Heights Roller Hockey appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Here’s a good one from the Library of Congress archives. It’s a drawing of the proposed new Executive Mansion, to be built on Meridian Hill (where the park is today). It looks quite ostentatious for American tastes and, in my opinion, resembles Il Vittoriano in Piazza Venezia, Rome (look here … thanks Andrea, great photo blog!).

The drive for a new White House on the hill was really championed by Mary Foote Henderson, who happened to live across 16th St. from the hill. I’m sure she and her husband stood to see a mighty profit from an increase in land prices, because they had purchased enormous tracts of land up and down 16th St. Her hopes were to have a grand boulevard of embassies and fine mansions going up the street.

These plans date back to 1900, right around the time when Teddy Roosevelt was looking to expand and built the West Wing due to overcrowding the White House. Luckily (in my mind), this never came to fruition. A great park was eventually built with the backing of Mrs. Henderson on Meridian Hill, topped off with a statue of Joan of Arc, a gift from France.

View from the south of the proposed Executive Mansion

Check out a closer view o the proposed giant mansion below. It’s quite an amazing structure, far greater than the White House of today.

Proposed Executive Mansion sponsored by Mary Foote Henderson

By the way, who was Mary Foot Henderson? She was the niece of a senator from Connecticut and the wife of a senator from the Show-Me State (i.e., Missouri). She was kind of a big deal in Washington high society and owned the bulk of land going up 16th St. NW. Senator and Mrs. Henderson lived in a large stone mansion (more like a castle) at 16th and Boundary Rd. (16th St. and Florida Ave. NW). It was knocked down some time ago to build Beekman Place. The stone wall going up 16th St. on the left is all that remains. Read more about her on Wikipedia. Also, here’s a cool post about the Henderson castle, and a great photo of it is below (from the D.C. Public Library Flickr photostream).

Henderson Castle, and a view up 16th St. NW

Want to see some other cool buildings that were never built in Washington? There is a cool list of them with proposed architectural drawings here. Wow, some of them are horrendous.

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• Then and Now: Joan of Arc Statue in Meridian Hill Park (ghostsofdc.org)
• History redux: read a 1904 book about Columbia Heights (newcolumbiaheights.blogspot.com)
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• Video: Teddy Roosevelt Leaving the White House, Going For a Walk (ghostsofdc.org)
• Jeanne d’Arc Statue Fully Restored in Meridian Hill Park (princeofpetworth.com)

The post Proposed White House on Meridian Hill appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

The Evening Times - January 28th, 1902

This is a wild advertisement that I came across in The Evening Times (back then they’d publish the paper a couple times each day). Coke Dandruff Cure? Okay, my interest is piqued … what is that?

Coke Dandruff Cure advertisement in The Evening Times (1902)

At the turn of the century, drugs like cocaine and opium were not illegal and were used fairly regularly by society in both legitimate and illegitimate ways. It wasn’t until the 1914 Harrison Narcotics Tax Act that they became technically illegal — although still legal for some registered companies and individuals.

Back in 1902 you could sell all kinds products with cocaine as an ingredient (e.g., Coca-Cola). One of those products was this dandruff cure. People would rub it into their hair, it would numb their scalp and help get rid of their flaky dandruff, not to mention “cure all hair and scalp troubles.”

In the early 1900s, Henry Evans was a well-known druggist on F St. NW born in Wales in 1856. He arrived in Washington in 1875 after growing up on a farm in Gaithersburg, MD and by the time he passed away in 1929, he operated several drug stores throughout the city. He was a member of the Tschiffely & Evans establishment (which still exists) and the last store he operated was at 14th and Columbia NW. He ended up selling that store to Peoples Drug in 1924 when he retired.

He was a Freemason and lived at 3439 Holmead Pl. NW, which doesn’t appear to exist any longer (replaced by a slightly ugly apartment building). Below is a copy of his U.S. Census record from 1920. It looks like he had quite a full house, with a wife, Margaret, a mother-in-law, three daughters, a son, a son-in-law and two grandchildren. That’s certainly a lot of mouths to feed.

Henry Evans family in the U.S. Census (1920)

A little bit about the building on F St. NW … according to this document I found (The Historic Landmark and Historic District Protection Act of 1978), 922-924 F St. NW was built in 1876. The building is right across the street from what is now Cowgirl Creamery.

Oh, and another thing happened in Washington on January 28th. The Carnegie Institution was founded with a $10 million gift from Andrew Carnegie.

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The post Coke Dandruff Cure (1902) appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

Washington, D.C., circa 1914. “Three-horse team pulling water tower.” A fire truck racing past the Tea Cup Inn on F Street. Harris & Ewing

Evidently, horses racing through the streets of Columbia Heights was a dangerous thing at the turn of the century. This article I came across from July 9th, 1900 talks about a recent accident leading to new regulations.

A skillful hand is required to guide a team of spirited horses, rushing madly through crowded streets in response to an alarm of fire. The advent of the swiftly moving electric car and the vast extension of trackage in this city has made these wild runs of the engines doubly hazardous. The man who holds the reins has his own life and the lives of his brother firemen in his hands as he urges his tearing steeds across car tracks around corners and among vehicles of every description.

Doesn’t this sound slightly like the current chaos of the fire trucks screaming — at the highest possible decibel level — down 14th St. NW, weaving through traffic as they pass Target and Best Buy.

The accident of last week, which resulted in the death of one fireman, will undoubtedly bring about changes in the street car regulations … The members of the fire department are of one accord, too, in condemning the street railway companies for sanctioning the excessive speed rate which exists on some of the city lines.

Excessive speed rate? That reminds me of some of our current Metrobus drivers (what red light? I didn’t see one).

“As to the statement that the car that hit our truck last week was going but seven miles an hour,” said a member of the No. 7 company yesterday, “it is preposterous. The truck weighs considerably over 5,000 pounds, and when the car struck it, the heavy piece of apparatus was carried fifty yards or more, and after freeing itself from the truck, the car still ran further before it could be stopped. No car running at seven miles an hour could have done this.

…

The fire engine driver’s life is an exciting one in any event. Like others accustomed to facing dangers daily, the drivers become hardened to the excitement, and their composure and self-control in tight places are often amazing. A few years ago when an alarm of fire struck in the engine house and the driver jumped to his seat, the first thing he did was to strap himself to the engine. This practice has been entirely discarded in this city, although each engine driver’s seat is provided with the broad leather strap. A number of years ago a driver on a fire engine was making a run on C street near New Jersey avenue. The wheel came off the apparatus and the huge engine toppled and fell. The driver being strapped to the seat could not jump and therefore fell with the engine and was killed. The excellence of the city streets renders the strap useless.

I would certainly not classify our city streets as excellent. In fact, I would probably classify them at the exact opposite end of the spectrum. Thankfully, I drive so infrequently that I’m rarely exposed to the pleasure of running over axle-cracking potholes.

Three firemen on fire engine drawn by three horses in D.C. (1912)

This next part is pretty much on the mark with what a lot of drivers complain about today.

Bicyclists are a continual source of worry to the engine drivers. These men a wheel ride furiously along, just in front of the engine, and a slip would mean that they would be precipitated beneath hoofs or wheels. Horses attached to vehicles and left unhitched along the streets are another source of worry to the engine drivers, they knowing that should the horse become frightened and dash in front of the engine, nothing short of a miracle could avert a catastrophe.

Drivers still hate bikers, and some of the bicycle couriers in the city weave through traffic like crazy people. The latter part of the paragraph is a little crazy to think about. Imagine if parked cars randomly jumped in the war of fire trucks today. Clearly these guys had a much tougher time navigating the chaotic streets of the city than even the traffic mess of today in Columbia Heights.

By the way, this is the same fire company that exists today — the company at 14th and Newton St (albeit, they had a different fire house location at the time). Did you know they have a website? … and it’s called “House of Flame.” That’s pretty intense.

DCFD Engine Company 11 keeps Columbia Heights safe

Related articles

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The post Perils of a Columbia Heights Fire Run (1900) appeared first on Ghosts of DC.

I came across a great advertisement for plots in Columbia Heights. It dates back from July 20th, 1902. A few obvious differences that stick out: Georgia Ave. was named Brightwood Avenue, Irving St. was named Kenesaw St., Park Rd. east of 14th St. was named Whitney Ave.

North Columbia Heights development plots (1902)

Here is some of the advertisement (paraphrased because it’s quite long).

The 11th street car line (double track) will soon be extended to Holmead Manor, one square south of North Columbia Heights. On the strength of this important street car line extension over $500,000 worth of houses have been erected or are under course of construction adjacent to 11th street extended, and as much more will be expended in the immediate future.

Dont think $500,000 is something to laugh at. That was quite a fair bit of money and houses in Columbia Heights costs between $2,000 to $5,000 on average to build, so half a million dollars is maybe around 150 homes.

The same building boom is also beginning on the line of 16th street extended. Quite a number of handsome houses are now under construction on the line of this new thoroughfare. These houses are being erected and hundreds of others will follow solely on account of the plans to immediately extend the Connecticut avenue car line east on Columbia road and north on 16th street extended to Mount Pleasant. What effect will the extension of these two important double track street car lines have on real estate values at North Columbia Heights? This means the expenditure of at least five million in new houses on or adjacent to these two important thoroughfares in the next year or so. This means a demand for more ground, and North Columbia Heights comes next. Remember Old Columbia Heights, Holmead Manor, and Mount Pleasant made millions in profits for those who had the foresight to buy the ground in advance of the city improvements and with the advantages of only one car line (14th street). North Columbia Heights will have three car lines–11th, 14th, and 16th streets. You can, therefore, look for much quicker results and higher values in North Columbia Heights.

An expenditure of five million dollars is somewhere north of $150 million in todays dollars. That’s a serious real estate boom.

It is a well-known fact that the thermometer registers 14 degrees cooler in the summer in our vicinity than the downtown districts. This means pure air, refreshing sleep, and a good appetite, which are absolutely necessary if you wish to enjoy perfect health. It means a comfortable summer home, as well as a winter home, within 18 minutes of the Treasury Department.

Ask any physician where to live in Washington and they will say on the heights, in the northwest, is the healthiest section of the city as it is far above the malarial districts.

Pure air, refreshing sleep and a good appetite? Are you laughing at that like I am? Although I do have a pretty good appetite when I go to Chipotle in Columbia Heights.

$50 to $100 cash and $15 to $20 monthly on each lot, or one-third cash, balance 1, 2, and 3 years. 5 per cent. Off for cash.

Money loaned to build at lowest rates of interest.

Carriages free to see the property.

You will regret it if you invest in government bonds, stocks, or real estate elsewhere without first seeing our investment and comparing it with what others are offering you.

Sounds like this Fulton R. Gordon gentleman was a major real estate player in D.C. around the turn of the century. I suspect that a number of your reading this post live in or near the highlighted section of the above map, so Fulton had a lot of impact on the house in which you are currently living.

Related articles

• Perils of a Columbia Heights Fire Run (1900) (ghostsofdc.org)
• If Walls Could Talk: Big Bear Cafe (ghostsofdc.org)
• Nick Altrock: A Columbia Heights Major Leaguer (ghostsofdc.org)
• What Happened to the Electric Car? Buy a Rauch & Lang Coupe (1909) (ghostsofdc.org)

The post Street Car Extensions and a Columbia Heights Building Boom (1902) appeared first on Ghosts of DC.